Japanese Beetle

The Japanese Beetle is very active this time of year! They feed on leaves and flowers of over 350 species of fruits, vegetables, ornamentals, field and forage crops, and weeds. Norway and Japanese maple, birch, crabapple, purple-leaf plum, rose, mountain ash, linden, grapes, and basil are preferred hosts.

Consider protecting smaller plants (e.g., vegetables, herbs, small shrubs and trees) from Japanese beetles by covering them with nylon insect screens from late June to early September. Use a mesh size of ¼ inch or less and be sure to secure the edge of the mesh the ground. On smaller plants, you can hand pick or knock off beetles and put them into a container of soapy water.

There are many insecticides that can protect foliage and flowers from Japanese beetle adults. When selecting an insecticide, consider the potential impact of the product on non-target organisms (e.g., bees and other pollinators, pets and humans).

https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/japanese-beetle/?fbclid=IwAR05jw8GM4Dhz4F0z3yqBJG_D9mIpm53E8QhvF5KOHdWXB_LR0aZhMMHp5o

Care for Spring Flowering Bulbs

"Daffodils, hyacinths, tulips and other spring flowering bulbs are a welcome addition to many of our gardens. Providing a bit of care can help boost their beauty and longevity.

Water thoroughly during dry springs as needed to keep these plants looking their best. Spring is also a good time to fertilize fall planted bulbs that were not fertilized or established plants in need of a nutrient boost. Apply Milorganite, a low nitrogen slow-release fertilizer, as leaves appear or soon after. Apply two pounds per one hundred square feet for best results. This low nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer provides needed nutrients and won’t damage the plants if the weather turns hot and dry.

Remove spent flowers on tulips and hyacinths to direct the energy back into the bulbs instead of setting seeds. Do the same to improve the appearance of daffodils. And if you are overrun with grape hyacinths and invasive squills, a little deadheading will help slow them down.

Leave the leaves on your bulbs until they naturally yellow and dry. The leaves produce energy needed for beautiful blooms next spring. The longer you leave the leaves intact, the more energy and better bloom for next season.

Hide the declining bulb with annuals and perennial flowers. As the bulbs decline, the nearby flowers grow and mask the declining foliage and extend the bloom time in your garden."- Melinda Meyer

Easter is this upcoming weekend, and I'm sure many have seen the very popular Easter lily around stores, or in your homes. What many people are unaware of though is that the Easter lily can continue to be enjoyed even after Easter! Check out the link below from the WI Hort. Extension to see tips on how to care for your Easter lily while blooming & afterwards.

Interior/Tropical plant

I don't typically post much about interior/tropical plants, but this unique specimen was too neat to pass up! This unusual plant originates from Guangxi, China. The plant grows quite well in limestone rocks. As it is a tropical plant it requires a humid environment to survive and grow. About 85 to 95% humidity is perfect for this plant.

Check out the link below to find out what this plant is & more!

https://www.nurserymag.com/article/begonia-ferox/

How does WI winter weather affect woody ornamental trees?

Is Wisconsin's long winter affecting our woody ornamental trees? Follow the link posted by Wisconsin Horticulture - Extension below to read more about WI winter damage & how it may be affecting your landscape plants.

Wisconsin Horticulture - Extension

Ever wonder how Wisconsin's winter weather affects woody ornamentals? In this Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic blog post from February 2019, Dr. Brian Hudelson shares how snow, cold temperatures, ice, & wind can damage woody ornamentals. Check it out! https://bit.ly/32ZfJtd

Winter Interest

Is winter dragging on too long for your taste? Extend the holiday season with fun Valentine's day container planters around the front door for winter interest! Here's a few ideas to help spark your creativity.

Winter Shrub of Interest- Golden Threadleaf False Cypress

Looking to add winter interest to your landscape this upcoming season? The threadleaf (filifera) false cypress shrubs boast showy, greenish-gold to gold colors through the whole season. Being extremely cold hardy as well makes this the perfect Wisconsin shrub addition to your yard! For more information on the threadleaf golden false cypress, check out this link. https://www.thespruce.com/shrubs-with-golden-foliage...

Winter burn protection for evergreens

As our first heavy snowfall just wrapped up & the cold winter wind blows today, be sure you are taking the precautions needed to protect your plants from winter burn if not done yet.

Reason's to remove fallen leaves

With leaf removal season just around the corner, there are three main reasons why leaves should not be left for long periods of time on the ground. Other than them becoming an aesthetic eyesore and being pesky to rake check out these additional reasons why leaves can pose a problem in the yard.

1. Fallen leaves can pose a safety risk:

This is often overlooked, but leaves left lying on grass can become really slippery. Even just a little bit of water from some rain can make your client’s grass or hardscaping slick. This might not be as big a worry for residential homeowners, but it is for commercial property.

2. Leaves on the ground can become a habitat for critters:

Another problem with leaving fallen leaves on the ground for too long is that they can become an invitation for unwanted pests like lawn insects and even rodents to take up residence. These critters are often in search of a place to hid out and the cover of some fallen leaves can make a great spot.

3. Leaf cover can kill the grass and inhibit lawn care services

Another big problem with letting a bunch of leaves remain on the ground is that it can start to kill the grass. Heavy leaf cover will block the lawn’s access to sunlight. It might even block its access to water and nutrients (you certainly can’t perform a fertilization service if there’s a bunch of leaves in the way). So, you can also position leaf removal as being healthier for the lawn.

As an alternative, turning leaves into mulch can provide great benefits around the yards as well. If leaves are small, rake them directly onto planting beds. For large leaves, chop them with a mulching mower first. A mulching mower shreds leaves into tiny flakes that settle into the grass and decompose into natural fertilizer. You might have to go over some areas two or three times to completely chop up the leaves. If your lawn mower doesn’t have a mulching function, adjust the blades to the highest setting and mow right over the leaves. The best time to mow over leaves is when they are damp from the morning dew. This will prevent them from blowing around too much.

Like any mulch, you don't want to pile leaves directly against shrub or tree trunks. Instead arrange them around stems like a donut, leaving some space around stems for airflow.

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Fall lawn care

Autumn is your opportunity to feed your cool-season grasses and prepare for the chilly winter months.

Fertilize: Feed your cool-season grass to encourage strong root growth. Your lawn will store up the nutrients it will need as it goes dormant during the winter.

Mow short: When late fall rolls around, adjust your lawn mower setting so that it’s approximately 1.5-2 inches shorter than you had it during the summer. In cool regions, this will help prevent snow mold, and in warm regions, falling leaves will have a harder time matting down shorter grass.

Patch/seed: The heat of the summer and less-than-ideal growing conditions may have led to some thinning areas or bare patches on your lawn. When the temperature has cooled down, patch these areas with seed to restore your lawn’s thickness. Choose a grass seed that will thrive in your region and unique lawn, making sure it can tolerate shade or full sun, as needed. Remove any dead grass and debris. Use a trowel or spade to break up the soil, then work an inch or so of compost into it to add nutrients. Spread the seed over the soil, then work it in with a rake. Place a thin layer of straw over the newly seeded area—this will protect the seeds from the elements and curious birds. For the first few weeks, water this area more regularly than your lawn. It needs several mistings per day until the grass grows an inch tall.

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/lawns/21300165/your-best-lawn-care-schedule?fbclid=IwAR3sdSZh3v1tFJfb1cc4TJ3vS7X_TMXE5yGTuPOvn9v-c4ivzn5uRcoo4Qk

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Growing grass in shade: Can it be done?

Late summer/early fall is a great time to install or repair lawns now that the heat of summer & the heavy weed growing season should have past. One of the biggest issues people struggle with in lawn establishment is growing grass in shade: Can it be done?

Grass in shaded areas under trees is often thin or discolored, therefore making it more susceptible to weed pressure since these areas are already struggling. While there are shade-tolerant grass types, all grass needs at least SOME sun to grow yet. With that being said, here are a few approaches to choose from when trying to grow grass in shaded areas:

-Remove the trees.

Many times people don't want to remove trees if possible, but if grass is incredibly important, then this would be the easiest first option. Once a tree or trees are removed, then it's easier to re-sod or re-seed an area for best success.

-Prune trees for more sunlight.

If tree removal is not an option, then pruning maybe a better alternative. Thinning the tree branches above will allow more light to filter through and could potentially help the grass grow better in these areas. Since you may only be allowing filtered shade to an area, then the grass could use a little extra support by the means of aeration, & fertilizing. Weed control methods will also help battle pesky weeds from trying to sprout within a shaded area.

-Consider a grass alternative.

If tree removal & tree pruning are a no go, and your grass still is struggling maybe it's time to think about installing a landscape bed or utilizing the space for seating. Mulch or decorative stone rings around tree trunks add for an aesthetically pleasing site below trees without having to deal with spotty grass in shade areas. If there are many trees with shaded grass below it, installing a fresh plant bed below them all with shade plants can really add a pop of color to a dim place in the yard. Or, if it's a high traffic shade area maybe it's time to install a small patio between shade trees with small plantings all around.

Asters- Fall perennial interst

Asters are daisy-like perennials with starry-shaped flower heads that range in color from white to blue to purple for fall interest. They also attract great numbers of bees and butterflies, providing the pollinators with an important late-season supply of nectar. Fun fact! The name “aster” comes from the Ancient Greek word for “star”—a reference to the plant’s star-shaped flowers. https://www.almanac.com/plant/asters

Japanese Beetle- Insect/Disease

Japanese beetle adults do not damage turf but feed on leaves and flowers of over 350 species of fruits, vegetables, ornamentals, field and forage crops, and weeds. Japanese beetle grubs feed below ground on the roots of turf and ornamentals. Check out the article below for information.

https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/japanese-beetle/?fbclid=IwAR3X9R0TUNbsM6anUiFkntnJz0_NO0P17IuK8SOKkv7wl86xF7zS6heX1Zc